Rolled Collar Basketweave Shrug: Free Knit Pattern

Introduction

This rolled collar basketweave shrug is a cozy little bolero that slips over almost anything and instantly makes an outfit feel like a slow morning in a cottage. It is written for intermediate knitters who are comfortable knitting in the round, purling, and working simple decreases, and it comes in three sizes to fit chests from 36 to 46 inches. The lower body and short sleeves are worked in a chunky basketweave of alternating knit and purl blocks, so the fabric looks like a woven checkerboard and feels thick, squishy, and warm. Above the armholes the texture gives way to smooth stockinette that tapers gently into a small rolled collar, and the whole thing is knit in undyed natural wool for a soft cream, rustic finish.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Bulky weight (approx. 100–120 yds per 100g skein), undyed wool, natural color: 3 (3, 4) skeins (approx. 300 (360, 420) yds).
• Needles: Size 10.5 (6.5 mm) circular needle, 24" or 32" length; a set of 4 double-pointed needles in the same size for the sleeves (optional — you can use the magic loop method instead).
• Notions: Stitch markers (4, plus one for the beginning of round), stitch holders or scrap yarn, a tapestry needle, and a tape measure.
• Finished size: To fit chest 36–38 (40–42, 44–46)". Finished circumference at underarm: 40 (44, 48)". Length from collar to hem: 16 (17, 18)".

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on — make the starting loops on your needle.
• k: knit stitch.
• p: purl stitch.
• st(s): stitch(es).
• rnd(s): round(s) — one full circle of knitting when working in the round.
• pm: place marker.
• BO: bind off — finish the stitches so they don't unravel.
• inc: increase — add one stitch (use your preferred increase, such as a lifted increase or kfb).
• k2tog: knit two stitches together — a right-leaning decrease.
• ssk: slip, slip, knit — slip two stitches knitwise one at a time, then knit them together through the back loops; a left-leaning decrease.
• rep: repeat.

Gauge

12 sts and 16 rows = 4" in basketweave pattern, blocked. Knit a swatch in the round (or back and forth and treat the rows as rounds), block it, and measure a 4" section in the middle of the fabric; if you have more stitches than 12, go up a needle size, and if you have fewer, go down.

Tips Before You Start

• Because the basketweave blocks shift every 4 rounds, read your stitches as they appear on Rnds 2–4 and 6–8 — knit the knits and purl the purls — rather than counting from memory.
• Undyed wool can bloom and change gauge after blocking, so always block your swatch before committing to a size.
• When you join the body and sleeves, place a marker between every piece; the decrease rounds are worked at each marker, so clear markers keep the yoke even.
• The yoke decreases pull the fabric in quickly. Try the shrug on (on scrap yarn or a long cable) after the first few decrease rounds to check the armhole depth.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Collar

With the circular needle, CO 64 (68, 72) sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist, and pm for beginning of round.

Rnds 1–8: knit (64 (68, 72) sts).

Body

Change to the basketweave pattern.

Rnd 1: *k4, p4; rep from * to end (64 (68, 72) sts).

Rnds 2–4: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as they appear (64 (68, 72) sts).

Rnd 5: *p4, k4; rep from * to end (64 (68, 72) sts).

Rnds 6–8: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as they appear (64 (68, 72) sts).

Rep Rnds 1–8 until the piece measures 7 (8, 9)" from the cast-on edge, ending after Rnd 8.

Shape armholes — next rnd: BO 4 (4, 6) sts, k to last 4 (4, 6) sts, BO 4 (4, 6) sts. Place the remaining sts on a holder (56 (60, 60) sts on holder).

Sleeves (make 2)

With the double-pointed needles, CO 24 (28, 32) sts. Join to work in the round, pm.

Rnds 1–2 (1–2, 1–3): work in basketweave pattern as for the body — *k4, p4; rep from * to end, then knit the knits and purl the purls as they appear (24 (28, 32) sts).

Next rnd: inc 1 st at the beginning and end of the rnd (26 (30, 34) sts).

Work even in pattern (continuing the 8-round basketweave repeat) until the sleeve measures 2 (2.5, 3)" from the cast-on edge.

Next rnd: BO 4 (4, 6) sts at the beginning and end of the rnd. Place the remaining sts on a holder (18 (22, 22) sts on holder).

Joining Body and Sleeves

With the circular needle, knit across the body back sts, then the first sleeve sts, then the body front sts, then the second sleeve sts, placing a marker between each piece (100 (112, 116) sts).

Yoke

Rnd 1: *k2tog, k to 2 sts before the marker, ssk; rep from * around (92 (104, 108) sts).

Rnds 2–4: knit (92 (104, 108) sts).

Rnd 5: rep Rnd 1 (84 (96, 100) sts).

Rnds 6–8: knit (84 (96, 100) sts).

Rnd 9: rep Rnd 1 (76 (88, 92) sts).

Rnds 10–12: knit (76 (88, 92) sts).

Rnd 13: rep Rnd 1 (68 (80, 84) sts).

Rnds 14–16: knit (68 (80, 84) sts).

Rnd 17: rep Rnd 1 (60 (72, 76) sts).

Rnds 18–20: knit (60 (72, 76) sts).

Rnd 21: rep Rnd 1 (52 (64, 68) sts).

Rnds 22–24: knit (52 (64, 68) sts).

Rnd 25: rep Rnd 1 (44 (56, 60) sts).

Rnds 26–28: knit (44 (56, 60) sts).

Rnd 29: rep Rnd 1 (36 (48, 52) sts).

Rnds 30–32: knit (36 (48, 52) sts).

Rnd 33: rep Rnd 1 (28 (40, 44) sts).

Rnds 34–36: knit (28 (40, 44) sts).

Rnd 37: rep Rnd 1 (20 (32, 36) sts).

Rnds 38–40: knit (20 (32, 36) sts).

Rnd 41: rep Rnd 1 (12 (24, 28) sts).

Rnds 42–44: knit (12 (24, 28) sts).

Rnd 45: rep Rnd 1 (4 (16, 20) sts).

Rnds 46–48: knit (4 (16, 20) sts).

Rnd 49: rep Rnd 1 (0 (8, 12) sts).

Sizes 2 and 3 only — Rnds 50–52: knit (0 (8, 12) sts).

Sizes 2 and 3 only — Rnd 53: rep Rnd 1 (0 (0, 4) sts).

Size 3 only — Rnds 54–56: knit (0 (0, 4) sts).

Size 3 only — Rnd 57: rep Rnd 1 (0 sts).

All sizes: BO all sts.

Assembly and Finishing

If you used holders, slip the live stitches back onto the needle as you work the joining round so the seams sit at the armholes. Graft or seam the small gaps at each underarm where the bound-off body and sleeve stitches meet, using the tails and a tapestry needle. Weave in all ends on the wrong side, running each tail through a few stitches before trimming. Block the shrug to the finished measurements: soak it in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess (do not wring), roll it in a towel, then lay it flat and pin the collar, body, and sleeves to 40 (44, 48)" circumference and 16 (17, 18)" length. Let it dry completely before wearing.

Pro Tips and Variations

• For a longer, more tunic-like shrug, work the basketweave body an extra 2–3" before shaping the armholes, and add the same length to the sleeves.
• Swap the plain rolled collar for a contrast color in a soft gray or oatmeal to make the rolled edge pop against the natural cream body.
• If you prefer a smoother yoke, work the decrease rounds every 3rd round instead of every 4th for a slightly faster taper — just check the fit at the armholes as you go.